The drama uncoils as we arrive at 55 Mill Street in the Distillery District expecting to walk into a restaurant called Perigee. Instead we’re in a staircase well, have to walk up a steel staircase. We can see ahead a low-ceilinged restaurant glittering with candles, the tables grouped around three sides of a glassed-in kitchen. Then we’re in the thick of it: we’re seated at a table within a couple of yards of a chef in whites and black skull cap with a huge knife as sharp as Sweeney Todd’s open blade, and a cook wielding a blow torch on meringue.   more »