Last week I decided it was time to overcome my provincialism and take seriously the New York Times’ claim that Lai Wah Heen makes the best dim sum in North America. I wonder what kind of achievement that might mean. When Marco Polo hung out in Hangchow, he said one teahouse prepared l,000 varieties of dim sum. But then Marco was a bit of a Pinocchio. So I don’t expect lots of dim sum, but I do expect, because I’ve seen a picture of it, a rubberducky of a dumpling stuffed with foie gras. I am overwhelmed with curiosity how the chef Terrance Chan is going to bring this off.   more »