Bryan Burt, a speech researcher at Queen's University, has been reading my comments on the organic food movement and now he's replying......
"For the last few years I've lived in Kingston, Ontario. There's a
pretty stark class divide here, and there are lots of poor people. I
live and shop in a neighbourhood that is primarily poor, and with some
interest I've observed the food culture that exists amongst the poor &
working class. Which is to say: there is no food culture. The problem
for these people is not that they're being hectored by elitist snobs.
The problem is that there is a shocking lack of basic education about
nutrition and food preparation.
You're quite right to say that 'cooking makes food good'. I don't
really care so much about the organics movement (though I feel there
is a lot more to it than buying food in order to make ourselves feel
smug). However, the important thing about the organics movement is
that it stresses food consciousness. The rising tide of convenience
foods and fast food is slowly eroding our knowledge of the basics of
food preparation. It's gotten to the point that most people don't know
how to cook at all.
You've suggested in the past that processed food is a social good
because it's all that the poorest among us can afford. In fact,
processed food is only affordable when it's compared to the most
boutique-y whole foods. Conventionally grown vegetables, rice and
legumes are incredibly cheap at supermarkets like Food Basics, No
Frills or Price Choppers. If poor people knew how to cook, they could
eat very cheaply - much more cheaply (and much more healthfully) than
a diet of Kraft Dinner, wieners and chicken nuggets.
I expect that the foodie scene in Toronto (and in the blogosphere)
sometimes feels like there's a consensus on organic and local foods,
and that by rebutting it, you're fighting the power. But in fact, the
movement for good food for ordinary people has a long, long way to go.
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The Important thing about the organics movement is that it stresses food consciousness....
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PRAISE FOR LAST CHANCE TO EAT, The Fate of Taste in a Fast Food World Gina Mallet is right about absolutely everything. Part explanation, part memoir, part manifesto, Last Chance to Eat explains where it all went wrong - and what we can do about it. An invaluable antidote to the dark forces who want to deprive us of the good stuff..... Anthony Bourdain, author of Kitchen Confidential. This Month
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