If it’s deep winter, it must be Winterlicious. This resto promotion, along with Summerlicious, was started by the city in 2003 to combat the post-Sars slump and seasonal doldrums. It sounded, as so many government initiatives do, patronizing, as if the restos on their own have trouble hacking it (Of course if government didn’t overtax restaurants, control wine, etc. restaurants would do much better!)

Even so the idea of a $35 dinner at a place where the bill usually went north of $100 was peachy, but realistically I knew there was no free lunch. Sure enough, the noise was often negative. A couple of years ago I was taken to a restaurant where we ate the ordinary menu but the service was lousy because the owner complained he was overwhelmed by Winterlicious patrons. As if they were on welfare. That’s how some Winterlicious patrons were and still are made to feel, and some restaurants are serving lesser food and smaller portions.


So when a pal actually called me on his cell phone from Oro and said “You can’t miss this twenty buck lunch” I sat up. And the mails kept coming even from my editor who, after visits to Boba and the Globe Bistro, asked why couldn’t she eat like this all the time? These restos aren’t offering inferior food at all, they are simply charging less.

And making money. Bob Bermann at Boba, waking up after a soldrightout midweek dinner, explains that the 14-day promotion (restos pay $750 to participate in the extensive ad campaign), insures packed houses. It’s “Volume, volume, volume” which gives him buying power with his suppliers. He can contract to buy 125 striploins instead of his usual 8 and his supplier is happy to make a deal. “Moreover, “We have smaller menus with zero waste.” The bad news for my editor is that there’s no way to replicate Winterlicious year round. The good news for Bermann is that the city cites stats show that 75% of those brought in by Winterlicious come back for seconds at regular prices. No wonder resto participation has risen in five years from 36 to 130.

And the city is so chuffed that it’s enlarged the ‘cept. A few years ago I suggested that the city get behind a program that paired star chefs from out of town/country with local restaurants – I was inspired by Anton Mossiman’s stint at Movenpick and the Ithurriague brothers from Pau at The Fifth. The bureaucrat dropped ice cubes in my ear. But someone listened I like to think because this year four restaurants are playing host to star chefs, among them Norman Laprise from Montreal’s Toque at Splendido.


I’m thinking ahead. Winterlicious shutters February 7, so consider this report as a tip sheet for Summerlicious – July 4-20.

The nearest Winterlicious menu to me is at Pangaea. Full disclosure. I’ve been going to lunch at Pangaea for years and I’m on the record as calling Peter Geary the friendliest maitre d in town, and I don’t think chef Martin Kouprie can be beat at grilling veal liver. When I check online reviews, I find that Pangaea is really noticed for its commitment to making Winterlicious a hit.

I arrive early on a Saturday for the twenty buck lunch. Only room at the bar which is fine with me, a great spot to watch the dining room. Pangaea goes the whole nine yards. It’s offering a 2 ounce Martini for $7.50 and the special B.L.T., Finlandia Lime Vodka, blueberry juice, twist of lime, is moving out of the bar as soon as it’s poured. Red and white housewine is $8.75 for a 6 ounce glass.

Behind the bar, the servers are rolling their eyes as orders fly thick and fast. My server, who moves as swiftly as if she’s on roller skates (there actually was a restaurant at Lincoln Center where the servers rollerskated plates to customers) acknowledges that Winterlicious is heavy duty, and the tips are nowhere. “Most people who come for Winterlicious aren’t used to fine dining.” I have one dire report from a downtown bistro where the service was terrible but a 17% tip was automatically included in the bill. My friends protested only to be told that the city permits it because winterlicious tipping is so scanty. In fact, restaurants can always use their own discretion whether they include service in the bill.

Pangaea’s offering four hors’ d’ouevres, three entrees, three desserts. I’ve never eaten venison carpaccio so I skip the otherwise tempting soup, parsnip and lemon puree with parmesan and a truffle foam, for three scarlet slices of a fine wool sweater daubed with a honey/juniper dressing, some OTT maple glazed chestnuts, a curl of dehydrated apple.

Now I’m really enjoying myself because I feel free to try anything – nothing can break the bank at this price. Ocean perch – Never tried it before. A chunk of adolescently firm flesh with pink-flecked skin arrives balanced on diced potatoes, pearl onions, carrots and tomatoes and in something called sour-dough clam chowder - I find more baby clams than sour-dough but I don’t really care because the jus is so rich and complex.

I look around, never seen so many people actually engrossed in their food. A couple of first timers next to me at the bar are savouring the cassoulet, it is his first taste of lamb shanks.

Pangaea is wellknown for its desserts: I pass over a slice of Forme d’Amebert cheese with sour cherry-apricot compote for a banana coconut cream cake. Another nearby diner tells me the maple roasted apples with Greek pastry and crème fraiche is what I should have had.

It’s 2.40 pm and latecomers are now clogging the bar. I realize I must in the name of hungry humanity leave what has been one of my most pleasurable, happiest resto experiences.

***Winterlicious at Pangaea 1221 Bay St 416 920 2323 No music just sound of pleased eaters. Food plus taxes: $23