I dash to the subway through the food court wearing a mask to avoid inhaling transfats. Then I 'm stopped in my tracks by a wonderful vintage ad for Delespaul-Havez chocolate. It is right beside a brew of hot DH chocolate, darkly brown, tasting rich yet light, tunes of blackberry, hazelnut -YES!

Le Gourmand occupies a stall on the north side of the mall, and its enterprising young manager David Huyneh is turning it into a delicious patisserie. Star feature: the soggy not too sweet Shi Bu Ya chocolate cake made on site. Imports include melting custard and custard pear tarts, a crunchy raisin croissant, and Rahier's cakes. And more's to come....