Harbord Street is as good a gastronomic stroll as I can find within a mile of where I live. It offers a couple of blocks of Food Med, Messis, Olive and Lemon, Harbord 93 and until recently Kensington Kitchen, beloved of vegetarians. But KK is now shuttered ( it has announced it will open elsewhere) and been replaced by Tati Bistro which has the neat pretty look of an oldfashioned French maid and a smart burgundy façade. Poitiers-born Laurent Brion, formerly of 8 Resto Lounge, is one of the owners as well as the chef, and his menu, which is hung outside, proclaims Tati’s mission: classic bistro fare from snails to steak tartare to moules mariniere. And yes, it’s named for that winsome comic Jacques Tati (Monsieur Hulot’s Holiday). In fact Tati’s bicyclette is part of the bistro’s logo.
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